Here, in The Wild
Backcountry Tramping in New Zealand with Alice Milne
The background
There's an iconic scene in The Hobbit where Bilbo decides at the last minute to join 13 dwarves on their quest to retake their homeland.
Bilbo frantically gathers his belongings and sprints out the door. He jumps over fences and cuts through fields in a dash to catch up with the rest of his company.
Just before he leaves the Shire, a fellow hobbit shouts, "Mr. Bilbo, where are you going?" As the music crescendos, Bilbo responds, "I'm going on an adventure!"
It's a beautiful scene because it encapsulates a basic human truth: we crave the wild and unexplored. Whether it's investigating an imaginary world as a kid or watching the latest mountaineering documentary, we yearn for adventure.
Fortunately, protecting Middle Earth isn't a prerequisite for adventure. There are still untamed places in this world brimming with possibilities. Take New Zealand, for example.
New Zealand packs a massive amount of scenery into an area the size of Colorado. The North Island hosts a spine of mountain ranges, including active volcanos that dominate the landscape. The Southern Alps soar thousands of feet into the sky, forming the backbone of the South Island.
Backpacking, or tramping as the locals call it, is essential to New Zealand culture. Thanks to an extensive hut network, backcountry hiking is accessible for all ages and levels.
"Tramping is so good for my mental health. Getting out into nature and disconnecting from all the stresses of our busy modern lives is essential. Normally, we don't have cell service in the backcountry, which allows you to spend quality time with loved ones. And I can challenge myself in a semi-safe way," says Alice Milne.
Alice grew up tramping and skiing in the deep south of New Zealand. Now, she writes a popular blog on all her tramping experiences, hoping others will embark on their own adventures. “I grew up tramping like my parents,” explains Alice. “Dad has been tramping since he was a young one, and then Mum got into it when she was at university. She joined the tramping club there. They were tramping before kids; they kept tramping after kids. Now, I’m hoping to do that with my family.”
There are 13 national parks in New Zealand, with some of the most remarkable ones in the Southern Lakes region. Glaciers sculpted this area thousands of years ago, leaving behind some of the most impressive scenery in the world. The remaining landscape boasts several of New Zealand’s most challenging and stunning tramping adventures.
One of the most arduous routes is the Cascade Saddle trek. Although it only stretches 9 miles, it requires 6 to 8 hours of climbing along a steep rock face. In return for your effort, you're awarded 360-degree views of Matukituki Valley and New Zealand’s second tallest mountain: Mt. Aspiring. And you're a stone's throw from the Dart Glacier, making it a bucket list experience for every seasoned tramper, including Alice.
"Part of the reason Cascade Saddle was so great was that the weather conditions were epic. It was a bluebird day going up. There was no snow or ice. There was this golden light covering the tussocks at sunset. It was all so beautiful. And sharing it with my father was such a cool experience," says Alice. "I knew I was trying for a baby that year. So, getting to experience a challenging route with my dad was the epitome of the last beautiful summer before settling down.”
New Zealand isn’t the only place in this world that offers opportunities for adventure. There’s a road less traveled in your local park. But it takes a little courage and some curiosity to seize it. The towering peaks of the Southern Alps won’t come to you. The trees and rivers of the forest don’t owe you an invitation. You must go to them, but the desire to remain comfortable is a siren’s song.
It can be an irresistible feeling, the urge to stay put. Everything is in its place. There are no surprises. You know what's around every corner. But if you linger here too long, you'll soon learn that the world and all its adventures have passed you by. Bilbo realized this. He knew in his heart that he had clung to his books and garden for too long. Don't wait for an old man in baggy grey clothes to tell you that the world is not in your books and maps. Go. Find out for yourself.
The training
Training for a walk in the woods sounds ludicrous. But ask anyone who has done a multi-day trip, and they'll tell you that training is necessary. First and foremost, training promotes safety for you and other hikers. It's preventative, meaning your chance of injury is lower. And it makes the experience more enjoyable. You're free to appreciate your surroundings instead of wondering when it will end.
If you want to get better at hiking, hike.
It sounds obvious, but it's also easy to overcomplicate things. If you want to become a better runner, you must run. The same goes for hiking. To become a better hiker, you must hit the trails.
"Tramping is my preparation," explains Alice. "I start in the Spring with smaller hikes. Then I progress the length and add weight as I go."
Take your fitness outside.
The gym is a tool that can help you use your fitness in new, creative, or challenging ways. It supports what you want to do, but unless you're a powerlifter or bodybuilder, it's not the be-all and end-all. Don't force yourself to hit the gym if you don't enjoy it. There are other ways to build strength.
"I'm not a huge gym person," laughs Alice, "but I get outside at least once a week and walk with my daughter on my back. So, having an extra 20 pounds gets your legs pretty strong."
Mimic the experience
If you're tackling a multi-day hike, it's not enough to accumulate time on feet. You must get your mind and body used to walking with weight. "Training with the gear you will have is helpful," explains Alice. "That means wearing your boots and having weight on your back."
The food & drink
Dialing in your nutrition strategy will always involve trial and error. You learn what works and what doesn’t by making mistakes and trying again. You can save some discomfort by following a few general principles, though.
Remember why you’re out there
You chose to explore the wild for several reasons: it offers amazing views, connection with things greater than yourself, and opportunities for self-reflection. Worrying about whether or not you’re hitting your macros detracts from the experience.
“I find it too stressful to break it down by calories, macros, and micros,” explains Alice. “That’s too technical for me. It takes the enjoyment out of it.”
Thread the needle
Packing food is a balance between maximizing calories and minimizing weight. A good rule is to find something that packs a punch and you enjoy eating. “When I’m exercising, especially going uphill, I don’t want to eat. I don’t want a big meal. So, I have to force myself to eat frequent high-calorie snacks, “ says Alice.
The gear
Lessons learned
Alice, on what the wilds teach you
“I don't know if there's been one light bulb moment per se, but knowing I can do these epic trips really helps my confidence. It really makes you feel like you have some sort of competence. And just being outside, disconnecting from all the stresses of our busy modern lives, is so good for my mental health.”
Love this Jake, I went to New Zealand many moons ago and it really is the most beautiful country. Tramping around it must be the most wonderful adventure